We flew into Kunming feeling a little apprehensive about major culture shock, considering that we were going into rural China after being pampered for 2 years in a land of automated toilets, good service and low crimes rates. We flew into China desperately clinging onto our wallets, but after a while we grew accustomed to things around us, realizing our fears were unfounded... plus we looked silly clutching onto leather pouches.
Prior to going, we weren't sure how best to get to FF's place which was in a remote village near the Burmese border. LY heartily recommended the 16 hour sleeper bus option, which involves an overnight ride across several narrow mountain routes. The good thing is you won't know how close to the cliff edge you get to in the night. The bad thing is you get cooped up in a tiny bunk bed with a blanket that reeks of smoke and sweat. You ride along with 20 other culturally adept Chinese: smoking nonchalantly in your face and spitting whatever their throats could muster to the tune of a dysfunctional coffee maker. The concoction of ash and spit remains on the carriage floor after a few hours into the journey. We weren't complaining much however, we knew that was all part of the Chinese culture. That 16 hour bus ride turned out to be a 22 hour one because a landslide blocked the road ahead of us for six hours. We boarded the sleeper bus at 6pm in the evening and arrived at our destination 10pm the following day. That was however, probably the highlight of the trip: a road trip into real China with real Chinese, and seeing beyond the skyscrapers of Shanghai or Beijing.
FF lives in a nice place by the river and works among a minority people group in the mountains. It was nice to catch up with her and exchange stories about Japan and China. For 2 days, we hiked for a hour up the mountains with FF to see her work in the villages. It was an encouragement to see how FF cared for them, spoke in their local dialect, and gave medical advice. In response, the villagers cooked us lunch which may only have consisted of eggs and pork fats (which incidentally tasted really good), but that was the best meal they could offer in their poverty.


We broke our journey in two parts on the way back to Kunming and stayed in Dali for a while. The old castle town is a tourist trap mainly because it sits along the highway to the famed Shangri-la (which itself will be commercialized pretty soon). We had a good time nevertheless, visiting the tourist attractions and eating Western & Tibetan food...We had a wonderful time visiting FF, LY & family, and seeing the work that is being done in China.








